3DPrinting

Halp

I don't have a small hand, this is just wide angle and a very big pickaxe.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6075723 https://youtu.be/KmCcjxr04Fs

My arm was getting tired, so I decided to over-engineer my coffee grinder. It already runs on a standard screwdriver bit hex, so I was actually pretty surprised that nobody else beat me to it.

Basically the filament run out sensor on my Anycubic Kobra Neo is triggering randomly and this is compromising the larger prints.

Did you have the same problem or do you know how i can fix it?

Cheated a bit by having it be battle damaged. You can hide the imperfections in the damages ;-)

I 3d printed a scan of this meteorite in thermal PLA

Next step is learning to use filler, sanding, and painting

I spent entirely way too much time trying to get one of these style extruders on my Ender 3. Maybe I picked a knock off without realizing it, maybe mine was just defective, I'm not entirely sure.

But it was ultimately the cause for my printer underextruding on certain layers. If you need a new extruder, go for something better than these cheap $20 ones and get an actually decent one.

But on the bright side, my printer is finally fixed! It feels nice to be able to get back into the hobby again.

I hope the 3D Printing community welcomes other CNC tools. This is a project I made on my custom-built laser table, utilizing "Living Hinges" aka "Torsion Lattice Hinges". They're a really neat mechanism that allows for a variety of different arrays or "lattices" of shapes that facilitate bending--and of-course these can also be created with an FDM printer as well!

This particular lattice is a simple design, cut into a 5mm plywood, and the divisions are all 2mm. Due to the length of the torsion pattern and the space between adjacent parts, the lattice featured in this box is actually quite flexible--it's capable of about 180 degrees rotation before risking damage, so for a beveled corner, it works quite well!

Another cool thing about these lattices is that they are essentially springs! My next project is going to implement a shorter lattice that instead of bending perpendicular to the lattice's plane, will act as a spring along the horizontal axis of the plane. The forces won't be torquing around the vertical columns of the lattice, but rather pressing those columns until the gaps close, so the torque will be along vectors perpendicular to the lattice plane near the thicker connecting regions.

Over all these are really useful designs, and due to the near infinite ways they can be designed, they can both deform in very unique ways, and also scatter light in very unique ways.

Hope this has inspired some of you to explore these really cool mechanisms in your own work; and if you have used these before, let me know in the comments!

Assistive tech for people that have trouble holding forks/spoons/etc. Made from my favorite lesser known material, polyhydroxyalkanoates, which is fully biodegradable in any biome. Anyone else making AT for people?

Mouse I printed on my Photon mono 4K. SLA is a learning curve for sure! I had LOTS of failures trying to print this.

I have some Fiberology PA12+CF15 blend (link) from a long time ago and recently got around to using it. I am amazed to say the least! It prints easier than PETG, even without an enclosure. Only downside is that it is much more expensive per kg, although it is lower density so I don't seem to be going through it as quickly as other filaments.

I recently purchased some PC Blend with CF from Prusa as well. I haven't gotten to print it yet, but I've heard very good things about it, too.

What less common filaments do you fine folks like using?

When you design several features you don't need and still haven't used...

Some are very useful though. Every possible DoF has its own adjustable end stops; not super useful yet. The extra rear rod is the stop contact for left and right rotation of the head. The ability to replace the heatset insert iron holder and modularity of the entire design; is not super useful. A ton of mods to tune out and preload all of the backlash is super useful. I can drill 0.4mm holes without breaking bits... at least not due to the press mechanism backlash. There is a single LED light with a lipo battery, charge controller, and CMOS 555 that acts as a single point source light guide. If you are not aware, a single point source light will cast a shadow from the drill bit showing its exact location reliably; super useful. The dial calipers are attached as a digital readout. It is 0.1mm repeatable, maybe a little better but not much. I mostly intended to use it for heatset inserts but still have not done so. The caliper mount is part of the press alignment mechanism too. The dremel is secured in a threaded lower mount and with a ring clamp at the back of the body. There is a shroud around the dremel that redirects the motor exhaust output to blow away dust while drilling. There are also several mount points integrated inside and outside of the base of the unit and intended for additional work holding jigs (not pictured, used, or well developed).

These are all custom designs fitted to the specific parts all the way down to things like casting defects unique to this unit. This is not the kind of project that should be shared or posted publicly as a printable project. You would never be able to replicate this based on the meshed files even if you had the same models of parts. Sharing this is only intended for design inspiration.

Wanted to take a moment and welcome all the new subscribes to the community. At the time of writing this there are more than 1,000 members!

Is anyone interested in helping moderate this community? If so, send me a private message and we can have a discussion. I know if the community continues to grow I will need assistance.

For a managing innovation class group assignment I created a youtube video on 3D printing innovation. Please take a look, like and share.

This system can be adjusted and securely locked in place. This example is a M42 2mmp. A printed tool fits the clamp collar outer spline to adjust tension on a bicycle crank while the base is attached to the crank spindle.

Also, this is ABS (Polymaker) after sanding and polishing. ABS (and ASA) sands and polishes extremely well taking a polish better than any other filament I have tried. Polishing maintains/improves structural integrity without needing extensive measures to offgas like with acetone.

Prusament PC blend is the strongest and longest lasting material I have tested in this application. While you will not be able to see this in the pic, when PC is polished it still maintains tiny imperfect inclusion lines that are from the printing process. These do not go away if the extrusion temperature is increased and they are not limited to extrusion line boundaries. They are present throughout, are smaller than a human hair, and only directly noticeable upon very close inspection.

While I am partially disabled from a broken neck 9 years ago, on a road bike the damaged area is neutral. I am a former amateur racer and a clydesdale of a cyclist. The only time of the day I can really fake being normal is on a bike, and I never lost my race legs. I only mention it because it should paint a picture of what is possible with prints like this and what this part has held up to. I have tested dozens of design iterations over the last 2 years and most filaments in this project just to see how they hold up.

Hopefully you find design ideas interesting like I do, and this gets you thinking. If so, please share similar types of ideas and discoveries.

The #3DBenchy model usually capsizes in water, but I found that with the right slicer settings, it will actually float upright: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6076719

I printed this a while back and is by far the most useful and fun thing ever.

Here's a close up picture of the print itself: https://imgur.com/a/flJjhGs. It's printed in PETG with 40% infill. I printed it first in PLA, but then it snapped immediately (thankfully not on my face). The only reason why I didn't use PETG from the get go was that I actually didn't know you could print it without an enclosure.

One thing that I don't like about this setup is that I'm missing a degree of freedom. If I tilt the monitor upwards, it will also tilt a little bit to the right. It's good enough for now because I want it to face pretty much straight down anyways, but I would love suggestions and advice! I was thinking about maybe copying this ball and joint I saw on r/functionalprints, but I can't find that link right now (for obvious reasons).

The monitor is this small lightweight portable monitor (comparable weight to a tablet) (https://a.co/d/0qGzPyC). The boom mic stand is a "heavy duty" mic stand (https://a.co/d/7Cjg8fs).

Still going through my included bottle of resin, they sent me flesh color. This is my first venture into resin printing. Ive been FDM printing for years now, have a few Ender 3s.

Waiting on a new bottle of AnyCubic's HD grey :)

I saw this company at the TCT 3Sixty trade show at the NEC in Birmingham, UK last week - but did not get a chance to talk to them directly. I’ve since not really been able to find any reviews or write-ups of the machines. It looks like it came out of a Kickstarter last year? Does anyone have any real world usage to point me to?

Just finished building this beast. It's a ratrig Vcore 3.1 with a 500x500x500mm build volume and blazing speed.

So tried out some PETG for the first time, and the first couple prints went really well. but I believe it's picked up quite a bit of moisture, sitting in the basement.

What's the current recommendation for a filament dryer? there was one on /r/3dprintingdeals a bit back, a Sunlu S2. is the S1 good enough, or should someone who's fairly recreational with everything spring for a S2? I see food dehydrators recommended sometimes, is there anything specific to look for in one?