Tae-gun

Basically keep it in storage because of the thought behind it. If the gifter asks where it is, you can always say you're storing it because you don't want to risk losing it/having it stolen.

Over time/distance, you can get rid of it, use it for parts (my preferred method), or find some other means of disposal (e.g. target practice). If asked about it, depending on who's asking, you can say you lost it, or that it stopped working and was too expensive to repair so you sold it, that you had it customized (if you kept it and removed the unauthorized branding), and so on. If you believe the gifter can handle being told the brutal truth (or this is one of several gifts you've received from that person so one of them being faulty/fake is okay) perhaps at that time you can tell the person the plain truth.

As for fake watch disposal, for me it depends on what it's made of, what's inside, and where the unauthorized branding is.

The price point is actually less an issue than how well-maintained it is (to a certain extent this speaks to its quality more than its purchase price), I think. Therefore an heirloom watch can be one at any price point, because it would be a combination of both sentimental and monetary value/functionality that makes it a "forever piece."

Basically no pics from while you're actively driving/in traffic. Pics from a parked car (not stopped at a light or during traffic) are okay.

If you'd like the sub to appreciate/comment on your watch without risking your post getting deleted, retake the pic while you're not driving.

Take this to r/smartwatches.

Rule 9.

Vintage Omegas get put up for auction on eBay all the time for low (as in ~U$10) starting bids. I picked up a vintage Seamaster (ref. 166.0209) from an eBay auction a decade ago for U$180 shipped - though I probably got lucky with that one.

If those movement and caseback pics are from the actual watch, I'd say it's genuine. The price, however, will probably go up as the auction winds down over the next 48 hours or so.

Leather is a great choice (technically-speaking, leather is the most formal of watch strap/bracelet materials and therefore is "dressier" than a metal bracelet, though over the past couple of decades the metal bracelet has become an acceptable substitute for leather). It works exceptionally well when you match your leather accessory/clothing (e.g. belt and shoes) colors with your watch strap for very formal occasions.

Also, happy birthday!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timex_Ironman

First produced in 1986. The one you have looks exactly like the second picture in the Wikipedia page.

Very nice. 5/5. I do observe a distinct lack of chronos.

A little overpriced, considering what you get in them and the fact that you can get these components for far less elsewhere.

Craigslist and eBay are the two major places that come to mind.

You could also try listing your watches on Watchuseek's WTS/WTB forum, as well as r/Watchexchange.

Depends on what we mean by "swimming."

What some people describe as swimming is not much more than splashing around in waist-deep pool water (e.g. at a hotel) for a few minutes. What I describe as swimming is lap swimming in a 25-yard (or an Olympic-regulation 25m) pool for an extended period of time (when I was swimming regularly 1750 yards/meters, or roughly a mile, took me about 40-45 minutes), or ocean swimming beyond the beach for an extended period of time.

For starters, I do not recommend wearing a watch while actually in the water. I always leave my watch upright in front of my lane. That said, for just splashing around in shallow water for a few minutes, 30m WR is probably okay but still risks getting water in the watch, and 50m WR should probably be the minimum for that sort of activity. For anything more, 100m WR is probably the minimum safe bet.