Mediocre successors?
Seathru
When I just installed it, the second or third option that came up was "Restore purchases: Restore your previous in-app purchases made in Sync".
This is my first time using sync so I don't have anything to test it with.
Oh I'm sure it's some form of lactose intolerance. I should probably ask a doctor some day, but decent ones are hard to come by.
Lactase does seem to work if I remember to take it.
Maybe. But I've donated to this instance (and this one only) solely for the community and moderation policies. I can hop over to another instance or start my own if I feel like barebacking the fediverse.
There was a third person in the back that looked perfectly capable. While I am normally the first to exclaim "NO!, Do not call the F'ing police!" This is one case they probably should have.
And absolutely not dismissing the officers actions, a car speeding towards the hospital with the hazards should be given a little more leeway until they give reason not to. Our entire police force in the US is an unfixable mess that needs to be razed and build back from the ground up.
You're going to leave us all hanging like that? Is it a graybe? One braincelled marmalade? Tuxedo!?
My brain says yes but my bowels say no.
Brain still wins every time. I can handle some discomfort in the future for a mouth full of bliss right now.
I liked on Postal where if you saved too often it would announce "My grandmother could beat the game if she saved as much as you do"
It depends how precise you need to be. If a 10-15% margin of error is acceptable*, then most of the budget brands (Presa, Titan, Neiko, ect) will be fine. If you need <5% margin of error, start looking at the major brands (snap-on, blue point, matco, mac, cornwell) that come with calibration certificates.
How many inch pounds you are working with will determine the size you need.
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1-100in/lb - 1/4" torque wrench
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100-1000in/lb - 3/8" torque wrench
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1000+in/lb - We really should be using a different unit at this point, but 1/2" torque wrench.
*For most shadetree repairs 10-15% is more than sufficient.
Edit: tried to fix formatting
If you're familiar with mic adjustments, you're golden. The problem shows up when someone isn't familiar and is operating at the low end of the adjustment range. You can accidentally end up below the threshold where it makes an audible click. If you don't have a frame of reference what 30Nm should feel like, you don't realize somethings wrong until you've cranked down way too hard. Beam wrenches are simpler (and quicker).
Maybe an unpopular opinion; but if you want a budget torque wrench (less than $100usd), get a beam style. I've personally used this one to assemble dozens of engines. I've got a $400 Snap-On digital that is great for torque to yield fasteners where you have to tighten to a specific degree. But if it's just something like spark plugs, I'll grab the beam torque wrench every time. I wouldn't recommend the micrometer/click style for a novice. It's too easy to get the setting off by a turn and unless you know what that amount of torque is supposed to fell like, you put your trust into listening for the click and end up causing much bigger problems for yourself.
Any questions, feel free to PM/DM. I'm having mechanic advice withdrawals after leaving reddit.
I finally switched out all my CFLs because I got tired of the power supply capacitors failing, exploding, and scaring the crap out of me. Electrolytic capacitors aren't limited to CFL power supplies tho, so I suspect we'll see the same failures as the LED bulbs age. It's typically not the LEDs or florescent tubes that fail, it's the cheap power supplies they drive them with.
I did like the delayed warm up CFLs had so they didn't just immediately turn on at full brightness. But now I'm spoiled after changing over to LED smart bulbs. Being able to set the color temperature and brightness levels on a schedule or according to what I'm doing at the time really feels like the future.