MyPlanetMars

I noticed that Longines have been releasing a bigger size for a model first, wait a few months, then release a small~medium size of the same model.

For example, they did that for Spirit, Zulu Time, Legend Diver, etc.

But, I am wondering if they will do the same for Hydroconquest GMT as 41 mm, even though it's still on the bigger side, is not completely on the bigger side. Also, it being GMT is a consideration. Zulu Time went from 42 mm to 39 mm. But, 41 mm to 38 mm seems too small for both dive and GMT.

What is your forecast? Have you heard any rumors regarding it?

First of all, I am really glad that the trend of "small" (or dare I say, the right size) watches is coming back.

I have been really excited to see a lot of new 40 mm watches and releases of smaller versions of bigger watches this year.

So, naturally, I started keeping the list of watches that I am going to stay on a lookout to come up with a smaller version. Here are the watches and the size I am hoping for:

Longines Hydroconquest GMT: 39 mm

It has a great movement and a very thin case for a GMT (12.90 mm). The reason that a lot of people turn away from Tudor Black Bay Pro 39 mm is its ~15 mm thickness. If Hydroconquest can keep its slim case and reduce its size down to 39 mm, I think it can be a serious contender to Black Bay Pro being $1,000 cheaper.

Longines Conquest: 38 mm

I really think Longines Conquest 41 mm is a great GADA. Especially, its thin case (10.90 mm) and 100 m water resistance make it a true go anywhere, do anything watch. However, the current collection only offers a rather large 41 mm and small 34 mm. I think somewhere in middle will be such a hit.

I am really hopeful that Longines will come out with a 38 mm version, considering its sister company, Omega, has 41 mm and 38 mm versions for similar GADA Aquaterra.

Mido Ocean Star GMT: 40 mm

Exceptional quality and dial for its price (~$1,300). But, it is a big watch with 44 mm diameter. I think reducing it down to 40 mm will create a monster in that price point.

And, I KNOW that Mido can do this looking at not-so-limited edition, Mido Ocean Star GMT Hodinkee Edition with 40 mm diameter. The same movement, the same greatness, but in a smaller case.

Bulova Lunar Lander: 38~40 mm

I really want to own the Bulova's high frequency perfectionist quartz movement. I personally think that it is as cool as Grand Seiko's Spring Drive, and I am very surprised that Bulova is not utilizing this movement as much. I had a high hope with Jet Star, but the design was not my cup of tea.

Also, I like Bulova Lunar Lander more than Omega Speedmaster "Moon Watch" just because I feel like every watch enthusiast owns a moon watch. Lunar Lander has an interesting story and heritage, and it will be a great way to experience the precisionist movement. But, knowing Bulova, I know it won't go down to 38 mm like Omega's Speedmaster Reduced, so I am asking for 40 mm.

Grand Seiko Any Models with Spring Drive Please**: 36~38 mm**

Honestly, for sporty-dress GADA watches, Grand Seiko's watches feel somewhat too big or bulky with all of their Spring Drive models going over 40 mm. I think if Grand Seiko release 36~38 mm Spring Drive, it will be able to bite a big chunk from Rolex OP, Explorer, Tudor BB 36, BB 39, and Omega Aquaterra 38.

Breitling Avenger: 40 mm

I know you are a big macho brand! But, I see a slight hope by looking at the Breitling Chronomat GMT 40. Even though I am a big fan of the Chronomats, I cannot love their Rouleaux bracelets. Maybe 40 mm Avenger will overlap too much with the Chronomat 40. But, it could be nice to have.

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So... That was my list. What is your list? I really hope some of these happen next year!

I usually go for watches around $1,000, but I have been trying on watches from luxury brands like Tudor, Longines, Omega, Rolex, Tag Heuer, Ball, etc.

But I can't really see or feel any differences or improvements on quality or finishing once a watch gets over $2,000~3,000. The only exceptions I can "feel" or perceive were the Rolex's bracelets and Grand Seiko's Spring Drive.

I can definitely think there is a "jump" in qualities from sub $500 watches to around $1,000 watches. And, I can see another jump from around $1,000 watches to $2,000~3,000 watches. But, I don't really feel another jump after that. Maybe there is another one past $20,000 or more, but ones I haven't experienced those yet.

People rave about finishings and details on certain watches, but when I put on my wrist or look at them, I'm like "oh it's ok, but I can't tell the difference." I was pretty excited to go try on some Grand Seiko's because I've heard a lot of things about their exceptional finishings and qualities. But I personally couldn't really tell the difference, and they felt just bulky and big. (Not a diss on Grand Seiko. I have a lot of respect to the brand, but it was just my personal experience)

Something to add though is I'm not talking about movements. COSC, chronometer, master chronometer, and other qualities in the movements increase reliability, accuracy, amenability, etc. by a lot, but that's not something you can feel physically right away.

One "physical" difference I can feel across the luxury brands was that watches' designs felt generally more balanced for more models that ones from collections of non-luxury brands. But, that is subjective, and there were definitely some ugly and unbalanced models as well.

So, I'm not sure if it's just me that can't see any improvements in quality or finishing after $2,000~3,000 price range, or the quality and finishing improved across the board in the industry, so no one can actually tell the difference with the bare eyes without using microscopes or close-up shots.

But I'll add a few better things I could feel from the luxury brands.

1. The sense of comfort and stability that comes with the name of the brand. Even if a watch from a microbrand or masstige has the same or similar quality or finishing, I don't think you can get that feeling from a microbrand or masstige brand. I think this alone can be a solid reason to get a luxury watch.
2. Rolex's bracelet definitely felt different. The links were very tight but smooth at the same time which was a quality I could feel.
3. Grand Seiko's Spring Drive is something you can definitely experience with your bare eyes. The smooth sweep is unbeatable.

What do you think about this?

I don't really why watch makers incorporate male endlinks when female endlinks make the watches fit a lot better. Also, male endlinks increase the actual lug to lug making the watches fit larger than it actually is.

Is there any practical reason behind using male endlinks over female endlinks? Is it cheaper to manufacture? Or, do they like the look of them on certain watches?

Hello, I sometimes have conflicted feelings when I try to get a relatively expensive watch with a printed dial.

I think if I am spending this much money, I want to enjoy all the details and finishes that I can't see on cheaper watches. And, I want a watch dial that feels more "built" than "printed". So, I think I like raised or carved indexes and details on the dial. When I see a printed dial, I feel like it's not really "worth" the money.

What do you guys think? If it's the same price, do you prefer printed or raised/carved dials? Do you think watches with printed dials feel "worth" the money"?