elDalvini

joined 1 year ago
[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 4 points 10 months ago

I'm guessing it's about documenting the assembly of safety-critical components. If some part of, let's say an airplane fails because a bolt comes loose, the manufacturer wants to have a paper trail attached to it to prove that this specific bolt was indeed torqued to the correct spec. Connecting the wrench to the network could make this documentation much easier.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (1 children)

I remove the chain and let it soak in WD-40 for a while. Then I spray it down with degreaser and rinse with a power washer. As long as the chain is well lubricated, I don't have any issues with corrosion.

Also, some quick-links are reusable. You should check with the manufacturer. KMC has a type that can be reused 5 times. With a bit of practice and a good chain breaker it is also pretty easy to remove and reconnect a chain with no quick-link at all.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 11 points 11 months ago

It's called HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography. Your phone is taking three pictures: one at a medium exposure, one at a bit higher exposure and one at a bit lower exposure.

The higher exposed picture will have a blown-out sky, but more detail in the darker area, while the lower-exposed one will have a correctly exposed sky with the darker areas underexposed.

These pictures are then combined by taking the correctly exposed areas of each picture, i.e. the sky from the low-exposure picture and the shadows from the high-exposure one, giving you a single picture without over- or underexposed areas.

I don't know about OpenCamera, but you should be able to select the size of the exposure bracket, meaning how much higher or lower the different pictures are exposed.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 16 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

Alles trägt zum Klimawandel bei, die Frage ist nur wie viel. Ich fände eine einheitliche Kennzeichnung, wie groß die Auswirkung ist, sinnvoller - so ähnlich wie der Nutri-Score.

Das hätte eine tatsächliche Informations-Funktion statt dieser generellen Schuldzuweisung ("Alle Fleischesser sind böse"), die wahrscheinlich nur begrenzt effektiv wäre.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 5 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

It isn't that hard, But it might be a bit overwhelming if you haven't done something like it before. I would recommend setting aside a couple of evenings for the job and taking your time. Start by stripping everything down, the build your bike back up slowly with the new parts.

It might be easier to pay your LBS for the job, but if you do it yourself, you are going to be well equipped to handle most issues and do any maintenance that may arise in the future.

Also, you can always bring the bike in to your LBS for the final setup and adjustment.

Here are some things you might want to keep in mind/check:

  • if you are replacing brake/shift levers, you will need to rewrap the bar tape. It might be possible to reuse the old tape, but it might get destroyed in the process. (In my opinion, just get new bar tape. It's not that expensive and directly impacts the (literal) feel of the bike
  • different types of bottom brackets need different tools. Check that you have the correct one before taking everything apart.
[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 14 points 1 year ago (2 children)

These brakes are single-pivot side-pull caliper brakes. They can work well, but only if they are well made - I personally never had much luck with Weinmann brakes.

For the rear brake, pretty much the only thing you can try is replacing the brake pads. The front ones don't look very worn, but the rubber gets hard with age and loses its effectiveness.

The front brake looks broken beyond repair. The part I circeled red should be attached to the green part, but the connecting part seems to have broken off. You might be able to find a replacement, but I would recommend replacing the whole brake for a better one.

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