ShadowRam

joined 1 year ago
[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 29 points 7 months ago
[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 1 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago)

Yeah, that isn't going to work, because either

  1. !>25% of your population doesn't believe women have that right

or

  1. Your countries existing laws give too much voting power to a minority
[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 1 points 8 months ago (1 children)

Dude,

Close down /m/internet and /m/science so that someone else can create it and properly moderate it.

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 3 points 8 months ago (1 children)

UPDATE:

Ernest update -> https://kbin.social/m/kbinMeta/t/875274/RE-Is-Ernest-still-here

We'll stick here and wait it out, and see if it becomes more stable.
Still no talk from Ernest about expanding out a team for something as big as kbin.

But hopefully it works out.

 

With the talk of Erenst (The solo guy running kbin) missing in action, there's talk of communities migrating over to other instances that are maintained by more than 1 person.

mbin is a fork of kbin that is actively being worked on by more than 1 person.

Largest instance currently is https://fedia.io/

I've created a backup magazine for functional print there in case this all goes belly up.

Feel free to create accounts where you see fit, and sub to that magazine as a backup.

Some topics below on the subject,

https://kbin.social/m/kbinMeta/t/873938/Is-Ernest-still-here

https://kbin.social/m/kbin/t/873855/Unmoderated-and-now-extremely-delayed-federation-is-it-time-to

https://kbin.social/m/SquaredCircle/t/873700/MOVING-UPDATE-pt-2-Electric-Boogaloo

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 1 points 8 months ago (1 children)

So how do you move a kbin magazine over to a new instance like fedia.io?

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 1 points 8 months ago

Not my design, nor have I printed it,

But looking at it, those printed bolts should not be under a lot of stress. They appear to just hold the part from sliding off the table.

All the weight of the drawer and it's contents should be in the C-Clamp shape.

 

This is a fully 3D printable clamped under desk drawer. What makes this drawer different? Well, Because it's clamped, you don't need to ruin the bottom of your desk with screw holes!

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 32 points 8 months ago (6 children)

You know what the world doesn't need?

an AI model trained on the old Reddit Hive Mind.

 

Alright this project is growing.. needs a new description. I recommend printing the drawers laying bottom down with tree supports, or on their back. Either way should work, but bottom down will use less support material. To free the pins in the back after printing, place your fingers behind the pin and give it a few sharp taps with something solid, back of a screw driver worked for me. -The chassis print best on their back. You can fit everything onto one 250 cubed build plate as shown. If you are working with a printer with less than a 250 cubed plate, try the Slim Stack or the Split Body, they both will happily print on a machine as small as 200. From left to right in the top of the photo, we have the Big Double (Big Double file and print two Big Double Drawers) Slim Double (Slim Double, print two Slim Double Drawers) Slim Single (Slim Single file and Slim Single Drawer) Big Single (Big Single file and Big Single Drawer) Slim Triple (Slim Triple file, two Slim Double Drawers and one Slim Single Drawer) Not shown is the Split Body, which for now is just the Slim Triple. Also the Slim Stack, which is two Slim Double drawers on top of each other. To assemble the Split, print the Split Chassis L & R, the Split Bottom Drawer L&R the Drawer Tie, and TWO of the Body Ties. I recommend using your favorite relatively thin glue to adhere everything together, then print two Slim Single drawers to fill in the top. I am working on a detailed PDF like my Club and Store models have for this project, to provide more detailed instructions on printing, running through settings and assembly. Its just taking a while, as the project grows so do the instructions. v1.1 01-08-2024; Chassis modified to be printed more reliably v1.15 01-10-2024; Drawer pulls modified to print with less support if in horizontal orientation and no support if in vertical orientation Buy me a coffee :)https://www.buymeacoffee.com/godsci Patreon:(project videos, commercial salable files, upcoming projects, requests)https://www.patreon.com/GodardScientific

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 1 points 9 months ago

They can't lock down or do it with 3D Printers.

WTF thinks you can do it with 2D?

What a goof.

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 31 points 10 months ago (1 children)

I can now finally solder things easier.

Drink my coffee while gaming.

Use Push to Talk a lot more while gaming.

Hold the ladder, brace, and hold a nail and hammer all at the same time.

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 1 points 10 months ago

220V compared to 110V

 

This a remix of trentesous' very good foldable tripod Version 2. I remade the phone mount to rotate, allowing for both landscape and portrait modes. Find the original here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2862445 Printing tips: Make sure to enable supports but use support blockers for the threaded bits The orientation of the parts should be as shown in the screenshot above I suggest using Gyroid infill with a high density of ~75 - 50% for the screws and ~25% for the rest

 

Parts for cable management under a desk. They are screwed to the desk and use tie wraps to fasten the cables. Added 4,5 and 6 Cable holders. Added Samsung Portable T7 SSD Drvive Holder Added regular SSD Drive Holder

[–] ShadowRam@kbin.social 2 points 10 months ago (1 children)

@jwr1

@kbin

Thanks for the thread info,

 

@kbin kbin is constantly returning 50x and 404 errors to me for the last few weeks. It's literally unusable, even for browsing. What's going on? Is it just me? should I move on to a different instance?

#kbin

 

USB-Cable-Holder for Ikea Skadis Wall. Standalone with little top Tray or for using as Addon for: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6320736 [works as addon only with the horizontal one obviously] Technical Data: i've only tested this with a cable length of 1m rolled cable should have a diameter between 50-60mm Print Settings i've used: 0.2mm layer height no supports needed 15% infill PLA see slicer pictures for print orientation

 

Universal holder for any cordless drills and tools. I used it mainly for Makita, but other power tools should fit as well of course. The following Makita tools have been tested so far in the 40mm version: Makita DTD171 Makita DDF484 Makita DDF484B Makita DHP484 Makita DDF459 Makita DHP481 Makita DTW300 Makita DTW302 Makita DHG180 Makita DHG181 Festool T18+3 Milwaukee 2553 M12 Fuel ** Milwaukee 2504 M12 Fuel ** DeWalt DCE530 ** DeWalt DCD771 ** (seems also to fit in 35mm) DeWalt DCF887 ** (seems also to fit in 35mm) DeWalt DCF885 ** (seems also to fit in 35mm) DeWalt DCD985 ** Surebonder Ultra DT-3100FAMZS ** Porter Cable PCC601 Porter Cable PCC641 The 35mm version fits good for: Makita DDF487 Makita DHP487 DeWalt DCD778 ** The wide version fits: Makita DWT700 ** Makita DWT701 ** Ryobi PBLIW01 ** Smaller tools will probably better fit in the smaller holder with a 35mm cut-out. If someone needs a different measurement, feel free to leave a comment, I'll see if I can implement this. Printing Very easy, no supports needed if printed standing. I used PETG for my prints and three walls with 20% infill. This is very solid. If you want, you can print it with 100% infill and get it even stiffer. But you will need ~220g of filament for this. ;) Update 04.05.2023 I've added another design for the holder, based on the idea of @mnemic. I has the same sizes as the other, but saves even more filament. Update 06.10.2023 I've added a wider version of the holder, for Tools like the DWT700 or DWT701. This version is identical to the 40mm default version. Only difference is, that that the inner width is 81mm instead of 70mm. ** = Information from users who printed the models.

 

Whipped up this quick wall mounted spool holder. made to accommodate 1.1kg spools and under at 100% scale and should accommodate 3kgs by just upscaling. feel free to remix and repost all I ask for is oc credit.

 

Update 2023-11-27: This thing is Version 1 of my adaper. I have now designed Version 2, with the following improvements: the smartphone's center of gravity is now directly above the mounting screw, which gives the tripod a more secure stand, The tripod adapter is now even more compact and lighter. You can download this new version 2 for free here or here. Summary (Version 1) This compact tripod mount can hold almost all smartphones with its clamping range of 64 to 84 mm. It can easily be printed as a single part (“print-in-place”). No other components are required other than a rubber band. For smartphones with slippery sides without a case, self-adhesive silicone bumpers can optionally be glued in. Printing Instructions: Use a 0.4mm line with a layer height of 0.2mm. Print the object in the specified orientation. If possible, place the Z-seam as shown in the image above. There are two print files, with 0.3mm clearance and with 0.25mm clearance ("...tight-fit"). If your printer prints precisely, I would use the latter. Assembly Instructions: Before using the adapter, the assembly of one or two rubber bands is required. Using two rubber bands instead of a single one can increase safety. Smartphones with silicone cases usually hold well. For smartphones with slippery sides without a case, recesses have been provided into which optionally cut self-adhesive silicone bumpers with a thickness of 2 mm and an edge length of 7 mm can be glued (see pictures above). Instructions for Use: Before inserting the smartphone, please check whether the rubber band(s) are still intact. The smartphone could fall out if the rubber band(s) break. The adapter has a printed thread to accept the mounting screw. The screw hole is 11mm deep. If your tripod has a removable lock nut on the mounting screw, you can remove this nut and thus increase the usable thread length of the screw. This increases stability. See picture above. The printed thread can wear out. Check the screw connection for tightness.

 

This is a fully re-modeled build of a MicroSD case inspired by Kozalakis's one, borrowing some ideas from Kroki's remix of it. I didn't actually use any of their source, rather building from scratch using SD/MicroSD card dimensions. This version relies on fairly close tolerances, so it may be a bit temperamental on some 3D printers (Details below). The main differences from the other two: The case holds 10 MicroSD cards (2 x 5) There are registration tabs in the slots, so the SD adapter lid should only go in with the label side out and the connectors on the inside of the box. The SD adapter should register with the card retention tab on the inside of the slot (The original design used the write-protect tab slot to register the card). Depending on the material used and tolerances, this may be tight or wear out after a while. The SD adapter can be pushed-out from the connector end (the main reason for Kroki's remix). The model is intended to be printed with the notched “connector end” of the case DOWN. The print should not need any supports as all overhangs are either short (i.e. inside the MicroSD slots) or gradually sloping (the inside-top of the box). I added a second version that has added 0.2mm thick “frog toe” sprues on the outer corners of the base. These may assist with bed adhesion and preventing curling during the print. The sprues are more easily removable than a conventional brim addition and use less material too. This was all done using a free OnShape account and the model source is here

 

This is a strong corner for fixing three planes. Print as in the screenshot. Added a new v2.1 version! The area of contact with the planes has been increased by adding small overhangs that do not affect the print quality. Added a new v2 version! Removed overhangs for simpler print quality. Increased base area for better adhesion.

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