this post was submitted on 15 Oct 2024
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I wanted to share my experience with waxing my bike chains.

I was resistant to waxing my chains because it seems that a lot of people felt it was "too much work".

But having to constantly clean black shit off my chains after every ride, then spend time degreasing and re-lubing, I figured I'd try waxing when I got my gravel bike.

Now, thousands of KM later and having converted all three bikes to waxed, there's no way I'd go back. The time saved could be measured in hours per month.

First, the biggest complaint is chain prep. Yeah, regardless if you're waxing or not, you'll need to prep a new chain by removing the factory grease. With waxed, you do this once, and no more worrying about degreasing ever again. Make like easy and get Silca's chain stripper, and it's a 10 minute, one-step process.

Ongoing chain maintenance couldn't be easier. After every ride, give the chain a quick wipe (or not). My chain stays clean, even after a 200 km ride.

And if you ride in wet or dirty conditions? Guess what, you're in for a LOT of work if you lube your chain. With waxed, keep a second (or third) chain ready to go, and you just swap it out (10 seconds of effort). Take the dirty chain, give it a wipe if it's only been wet, or pour boiled water onto it if you want to "reset" the chain to bare metal. Then drop it into the waxing pot for a re-wax. You don't have to stand at the pot, so there's no real time commitment here. I've spent more time completely dirtying large microfiber cloths trying to get my chain "clean" when lubed (hint: it's never clean if you use a wet lube, not without solvents and an ultrasonic cleaner).

For actual immersion wax, I do it every 1000 km (sooner than you need to), and use a drip wax every 200 - 250 km to keep things fresh.

Honestly, wax is easier, cleaner, and takes less time to maintain vs wet lube.

The only downsides? The initial cost to get started. But this is offset by not having to replace chains or other components prematurely. You actually save money in the long-term when using waxed chains.

Some might argue that "you can't run waxed chains in muddy or constantly rainy conditions". Well, at the same time, your wet lube isn't really helping matters in those situations, either. Waxed is still better, and you can swap chains much faster than you can clean the grinding paste from a wet lubed chain.

Who would I not recommend waxed chains to? Someone who rarely uses their bike. Drip lube will be "good enough" in those cases. But anyone else would benefit from waxing their chain.

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[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 19 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (2 children)

You know what's even easier? Forgetting to lube your chain for a while. Then avoid lubing it out of shame to face your failure. Then measuring the chain wear after a year to discover no significant degradation.*

* Might require extra strong ebike-specific chains like KMC X11e EPT

[–] lud@lemm.ee 14 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Even easier is not caring or even knowing that you are supposed to do anything.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 5 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (2 children)

Ah, you must be one of those cyclists I can hear a mile away! SQUEAK, SQUEAK, SQUEAK!! 😂

[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 9 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (1 children)

Another surprising thing for me is that at no point did it start making shameful noises.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 7 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Plot twist: You're actually using a carbon belt drive. 😆

[–] Longmactoppedup@aussie.zone 5 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

7 years and counting. Have never had any maintenance on my belt. The Alfine 11 has had an oil change though.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Sounds like a dream! I'm sure at some point I'll go with a belt drive. For now, I'm quite content with a low-maintenance chain drivetrain. Especially for their ubiquity, lower cost, and ease of repair while out in the middle of nowhere. LOL

[–] Longmactoppedup@aussie.zone 3 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

It's been very easy. Although I will say my use case is a 9km urban commute. Any issues I can jump on a train to the local bike shop.

Changing a rear tyre on a split frame in the middle of no where would be beyond me.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 3 weeks ago

Changing a rear tyre on a split frame in the middle of no where would be beyond me.

I don't think it's that difficult, at least not from the videos I've seen. But it certainly would be a challenge if you weren't in a comfortable area to do the work.

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[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Then measuring the chain wear after a year to discover no significant degradation.

How many miles/km?

Yes, good chains last longer. But good waxed chains can outlive the life of some bikes (20,000km on a waxed chain is not unheard of). And it preserves the components at the same time.

[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (1 children)

Not too many, perhaps 2000km. Spring/summer/fall, no water or dirt riding. The cassette is SLX, derailleur and shifter are XT. I don't ride a huge amount at the highest gears which suffer from higher wear due to the fewer teeth count. I recently lubed it with Silca Synerg-e and it's bit quieter but the shifting performance was excellent before and after that. With all that said, I have no doubt I've worn it more than if I had properly maintained it. Perhaps significantly more. Nevertheless I was flabbergasted at the state of the drivetrain after this much mismaintenance. 😂

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Yeah, with 2000km, I wouldn't expect much wear from a high-end chain like that. Before waxing, I was using Synergetic, which does help to preserve components. But it was still dirty, and I just got tired of always seeing black when I wiped the chain!

Now, I can literally put a dropped chain back on my chainring, and don't even have to wipe my hands. It's wild how clean a chain can be after 1000km of low effort maintenance!

[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

So you're saying I'm the perfect target audience for waxing? 🤔

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 3 weeks ago

Unless you don't ride your bike, you are the perfect target audience for waxing! LOL

[–] Fiivemacs@lemmy.ca 9 points 3 weeks ago

Key and Peele would be proud of your use on the chain wax

[–] superkret@feddit.org 8 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Counter-point: Here's how I lube my chain.

Whenever the squeaking annoys me too much, I apply some lube.
Done.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 4 points 3 weeks ago (2 children)

Be sure that you're checking your chain for wear... and your cassette... and chainrings. That approach might work well for some, but squeaking is already a sign that wear has been occuring.

[–] ContrarianTrail@lemm.ee 4 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

I don't see why anyone would need to go thru all that when we're talking about parts that will need to be replaced at some anyway point no matter how good care you take of them.

For me, my bike is to be used and abused. Yeah maybe my chain and cassette wears faster than with a proper maintenance but I also just keep riding way past that untill it effectively becomes unuseable. My chain is already stretched to the point I'm supposed to replace it and there's several teeth missing on my rear cassette but I notice no difference in performance. The shifting is going to be more or less shit either way because a new derailleur stays straight on my use for about 3 days. I've already mastered the trail-side derailleur adjustment by grabbing it with bare hands and bending it straight(er)

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago

I don’t see why anyone would need to go thru all that when we’re talking about parts that will need to be replaced at some anyway point no matter how good care you take of them.

Plenty of reasons, even when you acknowledge that parts will eventually need to be replaced:

  • Convenience.
  • Quieter ride.
  • Cleaner.
  • No solvents when you need to really clean the chain.
  • Saves a LOT of money, especially when some newer cassettes are $300+, chains up to $100, etc. But even in my older bike, where the components are cheap, I'd rather not be spending money sooner and more often.
  • As with the above point, components last significantly longer, and work better for longer (i.e. better shifting, no chain skipping, etc.).
  • If you count watts, waxing will save them.
  • Because you aren't replacing components as often, this has environmental benefits, too.

I'm not a casual rider, so I want my bikes to run smoothly and with as little effort to maintain as possible. For me, waxing has been a blessing.

[–] Mr_Blott@feddit.uk 2 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago)

My chain checklist -

Have I put oil on the chain this decade? Y/N

Done!

[–] JillyB 5 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

I prefer belt drive with a sealed internal geared hub. It's not for everyone or every situation but it's nice riding in the wet and just putting the bike away after without thinking about cleaning and lubrication

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[–] c0smokram3r@midwest.social 4 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Wow, this is super insightful! Thanks! Been wondering about waxing chains. We’re getting into our wet season so this is definitely piquing my curiosity once again.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago

We’re getting into our wet season so this is definitely piquing my curiosity once again.

Winter here gets slushy and salty, and I burned through a few chains two winters ago, then invested in "rustproof" chains last year, which worked well, but keeping on top of cleaning the inside of the chain and relubing was a PITA.

This year, I'll be rotating waxed chains.

[–] beek 3 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

The SILCA strip chip does a great job of eliminating the need for chain prep. Worth the extra cost, if you don’t want to mess around with harsh chemicals.

Waxed chains are the bees knees. I’ll never go back to using lube.

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[–] Geometrinen_Gepardi@sopuli.xyz 3 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

I used to thin paraffin wax with xylene just enough to make a solution that stays liquid and apply it to the chain from an old chain oil dripper bottle. If applied liberally it flushes out what little dirt has accumulated on the chain and after a quick wipe you're done. The xylene evaporates leaving you with a waxed chain.

I used dry lubes for a while too but found the homemade wax liquid the most trouble-free option.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago

Sounds like you made a DIY version of a commercial drip wax. I use Silca's drip wax, and I'm getting really good value out of it, so I'm not motivated enough to try something homemade. But I'm glad it works for you, and no doubt is better than most other lubes!

[–] bitwolf@lemmy.one 2 points 3 weeks ago (3 children)

How do you melt the initial wax? Watching videos people use crockpots.

Doesn't that ruin the pot? Do you have a dedicated pot for the wax?

[–] Travelator@thelemmy.club 3 points 3 weeks ago

Thrift stores are full of old crock pots. We used to get them for candle making.

[–] JC1@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago

I use a small wax heater for removing body hair. 20$ and gets the job done. If you plan to do more than one chain at a time though, it's too small. I'll probably buy a used crock pot or instant pot at some time to wax more than one chain at a time.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

If you use Silcas hot melt, then you can actually just boil the bag and put the chain in there. I haven't used it like that, but instead just got an inexpensive slow cooker (most are <$25 or nearly free if second hand).

It doesn't really "ruin" the pot, but I would dedicate it to wax only.

Interestingly enough, I've discovered wax melting pots designed specifically for melting waxes (i.e. for candle making), and while they might be a little more expensive than a slow cooker, they offer finer temperature control and may be slightly more convenient to use. With a cheap slow cooker, I'm quite happy!

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[–] thatsnothowyoudoit@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Started with wet wax five years ago. Two years ago migrated to immersion waxing.

I do 5-10 chains at a time. It takes all of 15 minutes.

Then I wet wax between immersion waxing sessions.

Chains last a wildly long time and the time saved in between rides is incredible. Not to mention how clean all other parts stay.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

I do 5-10 chains at a time.

For how many bikes??

[–] thatsnothowyoudoit@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Heheh. A few.

But I also do my partners bikes.

Most bikes have two active chains each. That way when I do it, it’s quite some time before I have to do it again.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Are you doing anything special to clean the chains before they get rewaxed in the immersion bath?

I'm a little OCD when it comes to worrying about contamination, but I hear a lot of people just wipe the outside of the chain and stick it in the wax without issues. You probably have more experience than most, considering how many chains you wax!

[–] thatsnothowyoudoit@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

OCD checking in here too.

To clean the chains they go in an ultrasonic cleaner with heated water to get rid of the existing wax. This makes it easy to just put all the chains in at once and let them party.

Then a second ultrasonic session with some isopropyl for a final clean and repelling the water. I have mason jars that the chains go in, so it’s really quick and repeatable. By the isopropyl step they’re already quite clean so the isopropyl lasts a really long time.

I’ve got the workflow down - and lots of place to hang chains in the bike workshop.

The same process works well for stripping new chains - just with the hot water step switched out for a mineral spirits bath. It’s just as quick but needs a space with good ventilation.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago

To clean the chains they go in an ultrasonic cleaner with heated water to get rid of the existing wax.

I didn't even consider using my ultrasonic cleaner with the heater on. I'm not even sure it gets hot enough, but I may give it a try!

As for isopropyl alcohol, it's a good second step, but I'm not even sure that it's necessary.

Remember that technically, we can just dump an old waxed chain into more wax, and it'll be just fine. Yes, a little contamination gets into the wax, but apparently not enough to be a problem (with as many chains as you have, I probably wouldn't want to do that).

And the Zero Friction Cycling guy even recommends two wax pots, so your "dirty" chain goes into one, and then into the second one, reducing the contaminants in the second pot.

But, I'm almost certain that simply boiling the wax off is going to be more than good enough to get the chain clean. And I think the guys at Silca say that putting a chain into oil that's a little wet is fine, since the water "boils off".

In any case, if your workflow works well, and it sounds like it does, keep doing it! I'm sure I'll modify and refine my workflow as I go (even might give the two pot method a go), but it's already "too easy" compared to all the solvent baths I used to run my chains through.

[–] Pulptastic@midwest.social 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Maybe I don’t do enough? I tried degreasing my chain in jars and with one of those chain cleaner things and saw no benefit but lots of extra work and mess.

Now I never degrease. Add lube to chain on the bike, several rotations to work it in, several rotations through a rag to clean it off. Takes three minutes and I do that monthly for the road bike, weekly for MTB, and after cleaning the bike. I never have to take the chain off until I replace it.

I use wet lube on the MTB and rock n roll extra dry on road bike.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Here's the problem:

The parts of the chain that wear out are on the inside; you can't wipe it clean.

When you use a standard lube, it attracts dirt inside the chain, and creates a grinding paste (i.e. that black crap), which will degrade the chain quickly.

As the chain wears, it wears on other components, so it cascades to the point where you'll get issues with shifting, chain skipping, etc., and components will need to be replaced.

Waxing fills the gaps where those inner components of the chain wears, effectively providing a buffer that dirt does not stick to.

You may not notice wear unless you are checking with a good quality chain checker tool, or when you start to experience issues.

How often you ride will also be a factor. Someone who rides 2000 km a year may not notice chain wear issues for 2 years. Someone riding 20,000 km might notice these problems every month.

And the more gears your bike has, the less chain wear you can get away with before it starts chewing through other components.

To me, it's an easy way to ensure longer-lasting, cleaner, quieter components, so I'll stick to it (no pun intended)!

[–] Pulptastic@midwest.social 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Define quickly? Is there data showing that waxed chains last X% longer? And what is the net present value of the time needed to maintain a waxed chain? I suspect it is cheaper to replace the chain slightly more often using “good enough” procedures than to obsess about it and spend more time doing a “better” procedure.

The only way to get it all is to go full Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Is there data showing that waxed chains last X% longer?

Yes.

And what is the net present value of the time needed to maintain a waxed chain?

From personal experience, much less time needed to maintain a waxed chain than a web lubed chain (assuming the same goal: clean chain, minimal wear).

I suspect it is cheaper to replace the chain slightly more often using “good enough” procedures than to obsess about it and spend more time doing a “better” procedure.

In the data linked above, the cost difference between waxed and standard lube, after 10,000km, is a few hundred dollars vs several thousand. With the amount of riding I do per year, this is like saving enough to buy a new bike each summer.

The only way to get it all is to go full Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Yes, for 99.9% of bike maintenance info, I also rely on Sheldon Brown. But the (extremely brief) info on wax is super outdated, and they cite articles from 2013. A tremendous amount of innovation has gone into chain wax over even the last few years!

Like I wrote in my OP, I avoided wax because I heard so many stories of it being too much trouble, but my experience has been the opposite.

[–] Pulptastic@midwest.social 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Did you click the SB article I linked? It was a joke that I used to point out diminishing returns of effort. I don’t want to spend the extra time and use the extra space for equipment and extra chains needed to wax my chain.

The 5 block test method on the site you linked does not seem valid as it would change based on the sequence of blocks. It could have been designed to favor a particular lubricant.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

It was a joke that I used to point out diminishing returns of effort.

That was extreme, but with wet lube, I used an ultrasonic cleaner + solvents to actually clean it. Less effort than the article, but similar results.

Any other way would not be cleaning much.

The effort, even with ultrasonic + solvents, is more than waxing.

For me, the little effort saves time, money, and headache. It's worth it.

I don’t want to spend the extra time and use the extra space for equipment and extra chains needed to wax my chain.

I have a very small box, with a very small slow cooker and a hook to grab the waxed chain. It takes up less space than the solvents needed to clean a web lubed chain.

The time, at least for me, is next to nothing. Far less than constantly wiping a forever dirty web lubed chain + the ultrasonic baths and disposal of solvents.

The 5 block test method on the site you linked does not seem valid as it would change based on the sequence of blocks. It could have been designed to favor a particular lubricant.

Page 1 shows cumulative wear (one test after another), but the second page shows individual blocks, and might be more applicable for some riders.

Even in block 1, without any contamination whatsoever, all chains without wax will wear.

In block 2, which would be someone riding only in dry weather, wet lubes show significantly more wear than drip wax, and even more vs. waxed.

In the wet condition block, many of the wet lubes ironically fail past the point of excessive wear, which means you're replacing your cassette by that point.

For me, waxing is a no-brainer, especially considering the other benefits (i.e. no solvents, no dirty hands, quiet drivetrain, etc.).

[–] Pulptastic@midwest.social 1 points 3 weeks ago

Let it be dirty. I wet lube, wipe, and let good enough be enough.

[–] LukaszH@szmer.info 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

The time saved could be measured in hours per month.

Huh? I have two bikes I ride all year round – snow, rain, sun, on and off-road. Both of them pretty well maintained, if I say so myself. I've ridden over 5.5k km this year, and I think I've spent less than an hour total on cleaning and lubing my chains.

Make like easy and get Silca’s chain stripper, and it’s a 10 minute, one-step process.

10 minutes to degrease your chain with some fancy (and expensive, I presume) stripper? Damn, nobody's got time and money for that. You can do that in less than two minutes of work, including taking the chain off and putting in back. Just put your dirty chain in a small plastic bottle with some gasoline and shake it well for a minute. After that, run it through a piece of cloth and hang outside to dry. Done.

Honestly, wax is easier, cleaner, and takes less time to maintain vs wet lube.

Yeah, sure. Not having to cook my chains every 1k km takes sooo much time xD

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago

and I think I've spent less than an hour total on cleaning and lubing my chains.

Then you aren't really cleaning them. The pins in your chain can't be wiped clean from the outside. If you ride and wipe down the chain, it's not clean.

10 minutes to degrease your chain with some fancy (and expensive, I presume) stripper? Damn, nobody's got time and money for that.

For clarity, that's done once with a new chain. And it's a much safer product than solvents, which can be reused for years.

Just put your dirty chain in a small plastic bottle with some gasoline and shake it well for a minute.

You aren't getting it clean if that's how you do it. The grit isn't being removed as well as you think. You can try that with an ultrasonic cleaner, but a used chain with need multiple baths, even with an ultrasonic cleaner.

After that, run it through a piece of cloth and hang outside to dry.

In below zero temps, this isn't an option. And I'd prefer not to use gasoline in my home, either.

You do what works for you. I find waxing to be a far better process, but maybe you're needs are different from mine.

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