ErgoMechKeyboards

I decided to go big or go home with my first ever keyboard build. 3D printed the case myself and soldered the entire thing. No I'm never looking back and will start my next split keyboard for work next.

Hey folks, I'm toying with the thought of a portable, wireless/BLE, 34 key split kbd. Most builds that I've looked at hide the battery. Questions:

• Do you mount the batteries? If so, where? Examples?
• Does it in any way impact the portability?
• Are there any other notable differences (in comparison to a wired board) one should be aware of?

Sharing my custom Sofle RGB. Spent a lot of time designing a minimalistic case. Figured it would be fun to show off here :) Full set of pics and info here https://imgur.com/gallery/hXzjwtz

Hi! I am excited to share my new build in this new community in Lemmy.

It is an Aurora Corne Low Profile keyboard. I just wanted to do a wireless split keyboard as thin as possible.

I bought all the pieces in splitkb.com:

• Aurora Corne PCB (comes with diodes and choc hotswap sockets to be soldered)
• 2 Nice!nano v2 USB-C controllers
• 2 batteries 301230 3.7V 110mAh
• Kaihl Choc low profile Orange switches.
• Choc keycaps
• Carbon fiber plate
• Case (I have not bought any, I've just made a wooden panel, cutting it ad hoc), but I may buy one in the future or 3D print one, let me know what you think about it.

About the building process, I can say that I was afraid of soldering, but it was fun and easier than expected. I struggled a little more with the firmware configuration, because I was used to QMK but the nice!nano controller uses ZMK so it was a little different.

After configuring my Colemak layout and my layers on the firmware, the flashing process is pretty strait forward. Also the bluetooth connection integrated in the nice!nano was connected easily to my PC.

However, after 1 month of use, I have started feeling some issues in the left part of the keyboard, mainly with modifiers, such as Ctrl, Shift, Alt, and some letters. When I keep them pressed they are not recognized and I have to repress them. I don't think it is a firmware issue, because I have tried different configurations in ZMK and now all of them fail with the same keys, independently of whatever character I map on those keys. I am thinking that it maybe due to some diode that may be missoldered or some pin in the controller, because the first days it worked fine. And I have tested the same configuration as those days, and now I am getting these issues.

Any suggestion?

Here's a recent-ish pic of how I use my moonlander at work. I've got some bog standard 24inch (I'm pretty sure, could be 27?) Monitors in portrait mode. I'm not a programmer, but a deal with a bunch of browser windows for work and they happen to tile out really nicely in this configuration.

MX Browns Retro gamer XDA profile keycaps (I can share the Amazon link if you're interested)

Old version in the back, new version in the front. Fresh off the printing bed. Haven't tested it yet, but pretty happy on first inspection. Have a few sneaky features. Aiming to release it in a month or so to the community. Using it as an excuse to try out Lemmy :-)

Leo at beekeeb is awesome! I've been using this board for a few months now, and I'm going to test out a new USB-C variant he's working on for connecting the halves instead of TRRS. I use a magnetic connector for the main connection; I have been doing this for a while with most of my boards and won't look back. The layout is vanilla Miryoku which I've loved and have not missed the extra pinky column at all.

I'm a complete novice to mech and ergo so I apologize in advance for any sins lol

The 3 I checked are Kinesis 360 (https://kinesis-ergo.com/keyboards/advantage360/), Glove80 (https://www.moergo.com/collections/glove80-keyboards) and the Moonlander (https://www.zsa.io/moonlander/).

These below are what I got from watching reviews:

• Kinesis is difficult to customize and sometimes has connectivity issues
• Glove80 feels cheap
• Moonlander doesn’t have many keys and thumb cluster is on odd position

Considering the prices, the moonlander is about US$100 cheaper than the others, so feels like a better option.

I am interested in options with keywell, as they feel way more comfortable, but anything will be better since I use an conventional non-split keyboard.

The right menu links to a compare tool but there are so many.

My hands are small, so it may constrain the options I have. Or maybe not.

What are your opinions/suggestions/experience with these types of keyboards?

Bad Wings - my daily driver for over six months. Shown here with custom caps from fkcaps.com.

Hi! I'm going to be building a Ferris Sweep soon. I was curious if anyone has experience with tenting one of these things. It's compatible with splitkb's tenting puck, but having a camera tripod on my desk seems like it would be ridiculously tall, meaning I'd need to adjust my desk and monitor in an unreasonable way. I'd like for my legs to be able to fit under the desk.

I've seen some 3d printed tented cases, does anyone have experience with that?

Saying hello with my trusty office Redox from falba.tech, typing on the 67g Tangerines for the sweet linear feel. And between-the-keyboards-space management (no cats at the office unfortunately)

I built this after borrowing a Preonic and slowly reducing the keymap to a 34 key layout. Touch typing actually feels good on it compared to row staggered boards.

I'm looking now to what I will do next, I'm still stoked with it after four months usage. As an excuse to try more designs I will probably build a 34 key dactyl manuform for home.

Therefore, I am here to pay my corne tax! Enjoy!

Testing out Lemmy, but also posting the wireless Ergolite I just got setup, using some off the shelf laptop risers as a simple tenting kit. Works... surprisingly well. Though the furthest thumb key on both halves doesn't seem to work...

Not including keycaps - £33 only! Has 5deg tilt as well

I had some wrist issues a couple of years ago and that pushed me to go to the split keyboard route.

I really love this keyboard. I’m someone who actually quite likes the low profile, laptop style keys, so I didn’t know if I’d enjoy this set up. But I quickly grew to love it.

Bright lights and flashing stuff isn’t really my thing, so I’m really glad I was able to find these keycaps that’s just look nice and clean. Underneath are the most silent cherry reds I could find (I’m also not a big fan out loud keyboards. Blasphemy, I know! 😃).

And for my biggest nerd cred: I’m so glad I can save my precious Dvorak layout straight to the keyboard. No longer have to deal with Windows’ layout switching.

This is my custom layout for the ZSA Moonlander keyboard.

The laout is based on the Bone layout. Bone is an optimized version of the Neo2 layout. Bone is created with English and German text corpus and originally provides different layers for letters, special characters, navigation, math symbols and even greek letters (for math mostly I guess).

I had to adapt the layout to the orthogonal arrangement of the Moonlander keys as well to my personal preferences. Oryx and the Moonlander do not support Unicode output, so I didn't replicate the math symbol nor greek layers.

The layout features

1. The base layout of Bone, with custom meta/control keys and means to switch layers.
2. The special chars layer, based on the Bone layout. I added some macros to input typographicly correct symbols on Linux.
3. Classic layer: Qwerty based to allow other people use your keyboard and play games (WASD etc.).
4. A “control” layer with F-keys, LED controls and a num block.

My layout is created to use with Linux and the Swiss German keyboard layout in the OS. Since it's based on Bone, it's useful to mainly write English and German texts as well as programming and math formulas.

If you don't use Linux or ch-DE, it can easily be adapted.

First post here just to get it startet :-)