Electronics

The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don't get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: pixelfed

Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a

What I ended up doing was making my own battery by using 2x18650 connected in series to get the 6V the camcorder needed and a buck converter and worked like charm. I didn't want to end up buying already "built" batteries from a seller in Aliexpress.

Here I wrote a little more about it with images. https://0x00.cl/blog/2023/making-my-own-battery/

Hello,

I have an old sony camera that has an old Ni-Cd battery (6V 3000mAh) and of course now the charge doesn't last long. They do sell "new" batteries for it but its from Aliexpress and I don't want to rely on 1 not so reputable seller incase I need a new one. So I wanted to repair it and "upgrade" it myself, but im no electrician or anything I just like to tinker with electronics so I had a few questions.

The battery and camera only have 2 connections, positive (+) and negative (-). I saw on aliexpress that they sell a 6V 4200mAh battery pack, which is made of 5xAA (1.2V) Ni-Mh rechargable batteries. Would it be as simple as that, if I connect the positive and negative to the corresponding ones on the old camera it should work?

Is there anything else I should take into consideration?

EDIT: The camera Is a Sony CCD-TR403 EDIT2: or would it be better to build my own battery pack with 18650

So, I was buying some stuff off Mouser and off the cuff decided to buy a transformer for a DIY dual-rail power supply. I wasn't paying enough attention and accidentally bought a Wurth 760895441 resonant converter (datasheet linked). I didn't notice until I was looking at the pinout and noticed the switching frequency was 70-120KHz.

I just tinker with this stuff for fun and had never heard of resonant converters. Am I correct in my assumption that this thing cannot just be directly hooked to mains like a Radio Shack special?

QSPICE is a new and fast SPICE simulator written by Mike Engelhardt (author of LTspice). QSPICE was initially limited to beta testing in May, then expecting to become open beta testing in July.

Quick start gives a quick overview of the UI and other elements of the software. Below are few more videos on the features.

Importing 3rd Party Models: https://vimeo.com/828090312/aa254d2e95

Using C++ and Verilog in QSPICE: https://vimeo.com/828086789/a7ada3a5d3

Planning on building a flight stick for a space sim. I understand some basics and I've messed around with an Arduino and a breadboard.

In the planning stages now. Should I measure the axis and rotations on the sim stick with hall effect sensors? Is there a more precise alternative?

I would also like to control the tension on the stick with brushless dc motors like done in this project https://youtu.be/ip641WmY4pA and I think the hall effect shouldn't get interference from the motors. Hopefully.

Is it supposed to be removed mechanically or chemically? Or is it supposed to stay forever? I need to redo some solder points for some components but I guess this is not possible any more, right?

Kids, changing the polarity of components that don't seem to work in an attempt to get them to work often makes them work even less.

RIP Recom R-78HB

Hello!

I'm looking for a power supply that can provide 12 volts up to 5 amps that also has a USB power port I could use to power a RPI.

I've hacked an old proprietary 3d printer apart and rewired it to use Klipper running on a Raspberry Pi 3B that talks to an Arduino with a Ramps 1.4 shield to control the motors and heat element. I don't have a heated bed so would only need up to 5 amps as that's the limit of the board. Right now I have everything working plugged into two power cables, one for the RPI and the other going into the Ramps board on the Arduino. I would love to get a a device that allows me to plug a 120V AC mains power outlet into it and provide me with 12 volts 5 amps and a USB power source I can plug the pi into. Does such a device exist in a small form factor? Would love for everything to be neatly contained inside the printer.

Why is i rotated 90 degrees from the real axis? Heavy on the maths.