Had to replace a gear shifter on my road bike recently, not being aware that I'd have to replace the whole cable to do so and then calibrate tension for the derailleur, but similarly to your experience, the whole thing was easier than expected! Folks should definitely try such repairs and maintenance at home to get to know their bikes better, and it's not like it'll cost more to get a pro to do it after you've tried (carefully), if it turns out you can't get the job done yourself.
this post was submitted on 31 Aug 2024
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Degreasing & lubing my chain after the wet season is my happy place ๐ฅฒ
Its good that you took the time and just did the work
Nicely done! Did you wind in the barrel adjusters at the same time? I find barrel adjusters let me really maximize my procrastination ;)
Yes and yes, they were all the way out, now all the way in
It's good when it's easier than I thought it would be.
I had to read "a couple third hands" about four times before I could work out wtf you meant
I just use a couple wood clamps but having some kind of third hand makes such a huge difference when you're in the middle of an adjustment and there's something that just won't stay where you want it.
A couple *of wood clamps
"A couple wood clamps" is something that married people get up to in private if they're into that kinky stuff
Phone holder and external battery I can click into it.
Make sure the battery has a high voltage because mine actually still makes my phone deplete over time..
Oil/siliconed various gears and moving parts. Bike feels brand new.
Took less than 5 minutes. I really should do that more often.
I'm assuming there was still material on the pads?
When the travel starts to bottom out on my hydraulic disk brakes, that typically means it's time for new brake pads.
I know that might not be the case with wire brakes because they don't adjust the caliper piston positions as the pad wears down, but just making sure.
If the pads no longer have material, simply tightening the brakes can end up ruining the calipers.
As for the post, I enjoy the same adjustment. That ride with new pads and reset pistons always feels super nice. They perform in such a satisfying manner compared to when they're almost worn out.
Pads are brand new, I had a pro replace them a couple months ago (lazy). It's just this bike positively eats brake cable for breakfast. (Weird, this got mis-threaded in the reply, trying again)
Good! Have fun riding.
I'm assuming rim brakes from the text, those usually have enough brake pads for several years or even a decade until the rubber just hardens to unusable. The cables stretch and hose shrinks also over time
No.
OP specifies that they are cable disk brakes, first three words in the post body. There are many possible reasons for why the brakes could be loose, but the first step should be making sure it isn't because the pads are done.
If they are and you adjust them back to tight, you'll end up wearing through the pads and start wearing away your caliper pistons.
OP may not be aware of the pad wear, as checking how much material is remaining usually means taking the pads (or wheels) out to inspect them, as the they can be fairly obscured by the caliper.
I'm not talking out my ass here, I've worked on both hydraulic and cable disk brakes.
Depending on the quality of the pads and how much you ride, they can wear out very quickly, or last many years.
It's likely that the pads are fine, but I don't know if OP has worked on their brakes before, and whether being aware of how worn the pads are is a detail they know about.
When the travel starts to bottom out on my hydraulic disk brakes, that typically means it's time for new brake pads.
Just replaced the brake pads (front an back) on my parters MTB (hydraulic) after we'd finished (she did most of tje work while i mansplained ) I told her to test ride and be careful jamming the brakes on as you'll notice a difference. She came back "jesus fcukibg christ they nearly sent me over the bar!". She'd been used to pulling them on further as the pads were well worn.